Ancient World Wines
Artania White, Beykush $20.96
A kitchen sink blend that tastes like the sum of its constituent parts and yet still totally unexpected. Without intending to be dramatic, I genuinely haven’t tasted a wine quite like this before. The bright acidity of Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, and Chenin are tempered by the riper, chewier notes from Chardonnay and Rkatsiteli, bringing what might seem like an unruly beast into a lovely, harmonious balance. Pour a glass and try not to be reminded of opening a bag of peach rings when you were a kid. But what is perhaps most unexpected about this wine is the place from which it comes to us: the Black Sea coast of Ukraine. That the blend of grapes works is a surprise; that the wine has made it here at all is nothing short of amazing. Enjoy it while you can! – James Angelos, Astor Wines & Sales Consultant
Malagousia, “Microcosmos”, Dom. Zafeirakis – 2023 $23.96
If you’re into powerfully aromatic whites like Gerwurztraminer, Viognier, and Zibibbo (aka air freshener wines), you should get to know Greece’s Malagousia. It’s hard to fathom that the grape was almost extinct until it was rediscovered in the seventies. Now, thankfully, it’s grown all over Greece. Domaine Zafeirikis has been family owned and operated for 4 generations. The domaine is now run by Christos Zafeirikis who returned to the estate after completing his oenology masters at the University of Turin. He converted to organic farming in 2005. As soon as you pour the Microcosmos Malagousia, you’ll be seduced by the pungent aromas of peaches and roses. The palate is brisk and has good weight. It truly over-performs for its modest price point. Ideal with grilled octopus. – Chung Park, Astor Wines & Sales Consultant
Naberauli, Tsolikouri – 2020 $24.96
Georgian wine labels can sometimes be as indecipherable as ancient hieroglyphics, so let me help break it down. Naberauli winery is in the wild, mountainous Racha region in the western part of the country. They specialize in rare native grape species, farm organically, and vinify using traditional methods such as qvevri. Tsolikouri is a native grape that is often made into sweet wines, but when vinified to dryness results in a full-bodied, richer wine. Naberauli’s is a prime example of this dry, richer style and shows beautiful aromas of honey and candied lemon. A great pair with spinach Mkhlovani or khachapuri. – Amy Miller, Sales Manager
Kisi, Andria Gvino – 2022 $26.96
These handcrafted Georgian wines continue to amaze me! We were lucky to have both the winemaker and his wife from Andrias Gvino in the shop recently, who both are creating some of the most impactful expressions of rare Georgian varietals such as Kisi and Krakhuna. For the curious palate, it was quite the education to taste both side by side, as these grapes come from opposite ends of the country! George Wolski, the winemaker, explained that Krakhuna is native to Western Georgia, where fresher wines with lower alcohol are produced while Kisi, native to Eastern Georgia, develops more ripeness, fruits, florals, & textures. Both are incredible examples of natural wines aged in qvevri, creating truly magical orange/amber wines. They all had that X factor that the best natural wines capture. You have to give these a try! – Alex Malecki, Sales Manager
Assyrtiko Santorini, Santo Wines – 2022 $28.99
Vinified in stainless steel and left for 14 months on its lees, this is a lush Santorini with concentrated aromas of lemon. The flavors are ripe, from pineapple to golden raisin, yet they’re balanced by a strong minerality. It’s a very well-balanced wine that pairs with grilled fish or a fresh Greek salad. Santo is a cooperative based in Santorini, the beautiful Greek island famous for its beaches. They built a state-of-the-art winery and represent all the growers of the island. They are committed to creating high quality wines and respecting the tradition of the island. – Andrea Fraccari, Astor Wines & Sales Consultant
Areni Noir Reserve, Zulal – 2019 $31.96
A benchmark wine from Armenia’s benchmark red grape, Areni, this is medium bodied with loads of structure, plenty of acidity, and a backbone of dark fruits. This is a throwback to the way wines used to be made, aged in Karasi (clay vessels similar to Georgian Qvevri) and with native grape varieties, before the Soviet regime ruined the lot with bulk wine production and vineyards geared toward brandy production. Thankfully, Armenia (and its neighbors) are forging a new wine future by looking to their traditional past. This is a taste of that future. – James Angelos, Astor Wines & Sales Consultant